![]() ![]() Some might read this and think it's foolish. I can get another 3-4 degrees on timing with that and it obviously runs better, not that it runs bad with the unleaded. When I get a chance, I get some race gas and mix it 50/50. ![]() Normally run 93 octane unleaded with octane booster and lead replacement additive (not real lead). Haven't raced in years, but I have a stock '69 427/390 vette. On a stick, you need to take it out, check for pinging at low speed and 4th gear. Back it down 1 degree at a time until no ping, and then back it down 2 degrees more for a safety margin. jack the timing up in 2 degree intervals until it starts pinging. If it's an automatic, the method is easy. Higher octane, obviously you can get more timing. I have gone as high as 40 degrees total on both small and big-blocks, but I would not go higher. ![]() I have used that method ever since on non-computer controlled ignitions. In a 2 year period, I never had one come back that didn't shake my hand and thank me. I would guarantee 2-3 MPG increase from their best MPG with my tune. Some cars I would advance up to 8 degrees (at idle) higher than the manual specified. I used this method when I was a kid working in a garage in the early 70's. It is obviously much harder on a motor with a solid cam and headers, etc. That is pretty close to what the computer does on your daily driver. He said the way to set your timing is to bring it up to detonation under load and power and then back it off 2 degrees. If your 26 degrees was accurate, you were running very lean and that's what burned the pistons up.Īs far as the timing, I read an article by Smokey Yunick 40 years ago. Definitely have a concern if you ran 26 degrees total and burned pistons. ![]()
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January 2023
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